Dmm Wallnuts Vs Offset. Feb 6, 2018 · If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when

Feb 6, 2018 · If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when placed in their sideways position, why are offset nuts so popular and even sold? For example: Is the angle significantly different between DMM Wallnuts in their sideways position and DMM HB Alloy Offsets that they work for different placements? I can see for smaller and micro offset nuts it being necessary as you can only get so small by turning a I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). Feb 12, 2004 · Thinking of getting some basic protection - what do people recommend, DMM Wallnuts or Wild Country Rocks (both on offer at various stores)? Cheers Tom Aug 2, 2009 · It also needs to be remembered that the swaged micro nuts (i. com Jun 15, 2012 · I don't leave the ground here (UK) w/o a full set of Wallnuts and a full set of DMM Offsets. e. But I found a deal on backcountry for Wild Country nuts 1-8 for $35 and 6-10 for $50, a total of $85 for 1-10 plus extras of the 6, 7, and 8. May 13, 2009 · The Micro Wallnuts work pretty well on slate but aren't as good on most other rock types. This seems to be a HOT take in Squamish, but I like to climb with two sets of nuts over having a single extra cam. When they were released, they were considered a niche piece, but now Dec 13, 2009 · DMM Wallnuts look different than most other Climbing Nuts they feature a small groove running vertically up one side of their head. 1-11 + Alloy Offset Set 7 - 11, 16-teilig: Nutset1 Das 16-teilige DMM Nutset 1 beinhaltet die komplette Range an Wallnuts Gr. DMM Wallnut Set 1-11 and DMM Alloy Offset 7-11 Set This nut set makes either for a great start-up set to kickstart your rack or for those wishing to replace a whole new set of wires. The Peanuts are actually a bit bigger and work better in igneous rock although they are possibly too hard to be ideal for some sedimentary rock. Oct 9, 2015 · HB Climbing's classic Offsets had almost been forgotten until DMM decided to give them a facelift, a new lick of paint and relaunch them in their new alloy form Moved Permanently The document has moved here. So let me present you the Ultralight Choice Award winner DMM Halfnuts and Wild Country Superlight Rock Re-designing my rack and want a different arangement for my second set of nuts. I climb mostly in the lakes. Whats the difference between these and peenuts? DMM - Nutset1: Wallnut Set No. Despite their simple appearance, Wallnuts are highly featured pieces of climbing hardware. They are a pain to clean though, and I wish they came in the same colours ass wc/dmm since I already know those colours! Wild country rocks review bd nuts black diamond stoppers climbing dmm offset outdoor gear superlight wallnuts vs hexes 3-8 - expocafeperu. Klemmkeile Wild Country Friend Set 0. Rock Climbing Chat: A Comparison between the DMM Half Nuts and the DMM Offsets. Though that's only while they're new, so go climbing amp get them scratched up! Feb 12, 2004 · Thinking of getting some basic protection - what do people recommend, DMM Wallnuts or Wild Country Rocks (both on offer at various stores)? Cheers Tom Black diamond stoppers review best climbing nuts dmm wallnuts vs bd wild country rocks offset outdoor gear wallnut nut set superlight discontinued - expocafeperu. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. Add to cart Moved Permanently The document has moved here. But nothing beats the dmm offset's Apr 15, 2021 · I've regularly carried WC Superlights 5 & 6 and more occasionally the size 4 on my rack for many years. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. Different alloy is used for each size - smaller Wallnuts are made from a harder alloy to prevent shearing, while larger sizes are softer so they can bite into placements. For micros get a set of BD swedges and add BD stoppers size 3,4,5 (stoppers sizes are totally different to WC/DMM) and you've got a great set with the strongest ratings of any gear for the size. com Well then a set of offset nuts and cams from 0. The two main problems with BD’s offerings compared to DMM’s offsets lie in the geometry and the alloy.  A really useful addition to any rack to deal with uneven placements. Of course your mileage may vary. Sep 21, 2022 · I find the offset shape of the WC ones to be better than DMM Offsets and that the "normal" placement sits really well in weird crozzly rock where I would have used DMM Wallnuts before. Occasionally I climbed with friends who had a set, and they always seemed to work really well.  The Alloy Offset is perfect for flared cracks where normal Wallnuts struggle to bite. The Alloy Offsets are designed to fit in old pin scars and small flares, and they are by far our favorite for these types of placements. Feb 20, 2018 · The thing that sets the Wallnuts apart is a longer shape, that tapers differently with the sides being more offset. Going to use the super light rocks in the smaller sizes but trying to decide between offsets and wallnuts in the larger sizes. JB Mountain Skills 34. Larger Wallnuts feature hollow construction to reduce weight. This results in a variety of more useful placements. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. DMM HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 $112. Craig hairynortherner 07 Jun 2008 Full set of DMM's ever-popular Wallnuts covering a broad range of sizes from small to large and their fantastic Alloy Offsets which fit in placements that no other piece of protection will fit. Although saying that I've got rocks as well, my usual rack is a complete set of wallnuts, 4-7 rocks, dmm alloy offsets, and depending on the route peanuts and brass micros. This Opinions on small regular nuts/ stoppers Title says it really. Larger Wallnuts feature h Despite their simple appearance, Wallnuts are highly featured pieces of climbing hardware. M. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. com Nov 30, 2022 · Dmm nuts recall climbing nut set wallnuts vs wild country rocks offset friends outdoor gear black diamond stopper for sale bd stoppers 7-11 superlight 1-6 - expocafeperu. 4 bis 3 in verschiedenen Farben → Detalls Klemmkeile DMM Wallnuts Set Größe 1-11 → Detalls Klemmkeile Black Diamond PRO Stopper Set 1-13 → Detalls Klemmkeile Camp C. North American climbers are familiar with the popular DMM Wallnuts, Alloy Offset and Wild Country Rock but not to other interesting and innovative nut sets. Comprising of both Wallnuts and Alloy Offsets, this cost effective package provides all the wire protection any trad climber could possibly require. P. Nov 20, 2007 · - have a set of HB Brass Offset micro-wires (un-beatable but out of production) The only thing I would strongly advocate is that having doubles of wires larger than size 9 is pretty pointless and if you are going for the standard approach of some of both, get Wallnuts in the larger sizes. Nuts: Wallnuts vs Rock on wires vs BD Stoppers by ochre » Wed Feb 28, 2007 1:28 pm There seem to be subtle differences between these and how one places them - can anyone recommend which is a good first set of nuts to begin with for climbing in the Cape and how these 3 types compare ? Well there’s the usual wallnuts and hb offsets but I’ve recently become quite fond of metolius curve nuts, they seem to almost work like an offset nut, and are fairly intuitive to place (to me at least). for when the shit really hits the fan, I have the smallest 4 or so BD Micro nutsand for aid climbing, I have DMM offset brass. They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. 0 out of 5 stars Re-designing my rack and want a different arangement for my second set of nuts. Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular "brassy" or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. DMM and wild country stuff is made in the same factory, but different price and shape. Oct 12, 2021 · That means you can mix every DMM nuts with any Wild Country without any confusion. DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. Sep 6, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A. Craig hairynortherner 07 Jun 2008 Jun 15, 2012 · I don't leave the ground here (UK) w/o a full set of Wallnuts and a full set of DMM Offsets. The DMM Nuts are high quality, lightweight, Made in Wales, and look pretty damn sweet. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. That setup has worked great for me from Red Rock sandstone to columnar basalt to Yosemite granite. you get the picture. This groove helps them excel at irregular rock types such as limestone and crystallized granite. Wild Country Rockcentrics are an excellent choice. I feel like the DMM's have slightly more placements, but are more difficult to remove after a fall than the rocks. I far preffer the DMM wallnuts and offsets to the BD ones. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. . Though that’s only while they’re new, so go climbing & get them scratched up! Rock Climbing Chat: A Comparison between the DMM Half Nuts and the DMM Offsets. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. Set Tricam Dyneema 4 Stück → Detalls Klemmkeile Wild Country SL Offset Rock 5-10 im Vergleich → Detalls Moved Permanently The document has moved here. He finds them lacking in one Moved Permanently The document has moved here. 'Nuff said. Sure there were some other companies out there offering some version of an offset nut He has the 1-11 DMM Wallnuts which I really enjoy and was considering buying. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection. I find that I use some of each on most climbs and I don't mind carrying the extra stoppers (they are pretty light compared to cams) so I carry both. 3K subscribers Subscribe The backbone of every trad rack. They are the same nuts created by legendary climber Hugh Banner back in the '60s, with a renovated design that renders them much lighter while still preserving their strength. Don't touch WC or DMM micros they're nowhere near as strong for the sizes. 5 to 2 is a great supplement to a friends rack. If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. 4 to 3. Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are the latest iteration of the original HB offset nut. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. Mar 7, 2008 · I always thought that Peenuts were the small DMM nuts, below wallnuts. 1-11 und die komplette Range an Offsets 7-11! Wer viel mit Klemmkeilen arbeitet und alle GrцЯen abdecken mцchte, kommt an diesem Komplettset nicht vorbei. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. I rack my wires on old solid-gate krabs rather than on newer-style wire-gate krabs - here’s why: Getting the DMM Wallnuts and Offset Nuts gives you all the passive protection you'll need to start practicing traditional climbing and lets you find out what you should get next. Feb 10, 2011 · Standard rack 1 set of Rocks 1 set of Wallnuts 3 Dmm alloy Offsets 1 set of micro alloy wires (dmm or Wild country or BD) 1 set of brass micro wires Some climbers also add extra sizes that are commonly used (say an extra Wallnut 7), and some rock types and pitch lengths may lend themselves to carrying a third set of nuts. Toby Archer, a big fan of the old HB Offsets, goes out cragging and takes them through their paces. Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. Larger Wallnuts feature h DMM - Nutset1: Wallnut Set No. Is it because the shape gives you more options depending on the side you place against the crack? Oct 14, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The rest of my rack is DMM - Wallnuts, Brass & Alloy offsets and Peanuts. Jul 24, 2025 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. DMM Micro Wallnuts) offer greater, surface contact which is an important consideration as a common mechanism for failure in real life is the nut pulling through the placement. May 3, 2015 · My rack for grit is DMM Wallnuts 1-11 + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 For rhyolite, DMM offsets (brass and alloy) + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 So, to answer your question with a question, where do you climb? If predominantly grit, I'd go for the WC offsets, if the celtic fringes, DMM. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. Sep 17, 2020 · Nuts and wires When climbing in the Lakes I carry DMM Wallnuts 1-11 with doubles of 1-7, and a set of DMM Offset wires. These will give you a good range of sizes. 00 (3) 3 reviews with an average rating of 5. If you’re the only one with the gear, you’ll quickly find that you want two of each size cam from 0. Larger Wallnuts feature h The DMM Wallnut Set 1-11 is a full set of the Wallnut range of popular climbing nuts that are a staple for any climbing rack. With the Brass Offsets and Peanuts I'm not short of offset options in the smaller sizes so I found the smallest Superlights didn't add much so I didn't hang onto them. They are color coded for making it easy to choose among them during the The backbone of every trad rack. 75. However looking at the DMM site I see you can get wall nuts in sizes 00 to 0. Any advice or comments most welcome. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. For free climbing, the DMM Peanuts are awesome. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr Save on a Set! Aluminum Alloy Offset Nuts are tapered to fit flared slots, pin scars and bottleneck cracks I have a set of DMM (wallnuts and offsets)and a partial set of the offset rocks. The backbone of every trad rack. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Irregular is better. Getting the DMM Wallnuts and Offset Nuts gives you all the passive protection you’ll need to start practicing traditional climbing and lets you find out what you should get next. They feature holes on the larger faces of the alloy head and they fit great in flared cracks. On more parallel sided placements, conventional shaped nuts like Rocks, Wallnuts and Stoppers will work better, but you should see offsets as a complement not a stand in for a full nut rack. These tiny May 3, 2015 · My rack for grit is DMM Wallnuts 1-11 + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 For rhyolite, DMM offsets (brass and alloy) + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 So, to answer your question with a question, where do you climb? If predominantly grit, I'd go for the WC offsets, if the celtic fringes, DMM. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Depends where you'll be climbing. 3K subscribers Subscribe Aug 17, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I prefer them over the dmm wallnuts, but maybe thats Just because i am more used to them. com I’d always heard how awesome the old HB Offset nuts were, especially for flaring placements, but after the company went out of business, they were a lot harder to find. Different climbing areas warrant different racks, but I pretty much always have at least 16 or so stoppers from DMM and usually more. The overwhelming consensus recommendation always seems to be for these DMM alloy offsets. Note: We have used the Wild Country Rocks and DMM Wallnuts as a size/shape reference point when comparing other nuts, as after asking many UK climbers which nut shape they were familiar with, WC Rocks and DMM Wallnuts were the most well known. One of the defining features of DMM Wallnuts has to be the alloy mix which is different for each size, preventing shearing of the smaller nuts and allowing for more bite on the larger ones. A classic piece of protection re-invented. You will not go far wrong with 1-11 Wallnuts and 1-8 Rocks. Dec 5, 2008 · Buy the DMM Offset Nuts from Backcountry. On harder climbs I take a set of DMM Peenuts and a set of DMM brass offset wires. But no one explains in detail exactly why they are better than the standard non-offset nuts I have (DMM wallnuts, like op). DMM Wallnut The Alloy Offset is a set of climbing nuts by DMM. Size 3+ - wallnuts cos they almost always seat better. (For £45 more you have the same but with a set of large Torque nuts to cover bigger placements if you buy DMM's full Protectio Dmm wallnuts. Both the shape and alloy seem to work a bit better. Pros Oct 31, 2024 · The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are unmatched in ranking because of their overall versatility and how bomber they are in places where other pieces of protection might hold body weight only.

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